beeb wrote:

peskado wrote:Maybe this problem same with MT?

if you're referring to the volume of the mid-tom, then the latest firmware fixes it!

Yes, I'm referring to the volume of the mid-tom

Dear Diyer,

Have good news.
After lot of cutting traces, wiring, solder.... we find a solution to make this "Buzz" off.
First cut trace between IC11 pin2 and VR4 pin1 like follow:


Then solder both Q12 and Q6 emitter together out of the PCB.
Solder a wire between Q12, Q6 emitter and IC11 pin2 then between Q12, Q6 emmiter and VR4 pin1:


It seems that this trace is to close to the ground plane.
Let me know if it works for you.

Best regards,
e-licktronic

good to see some progress being made on fixes. can you post another pic of that fix? for some reason it's hard to see what's going on from that one.

Hello Vincent, this question has to do with me taking care of the issue before I begin my assembly next week. Instead of cutting the trace at IC11 pin 2, could I just not place a socket in that hole and bend the pin out to solder the wire. Then when I'm installing Q6 and Q12 I could use a two pin socket for each and just leave the emitter out of the board and solder them together along with the wire from IC11, pin 2. This way I would only need to cut one trace, pin 1 of VR4. I'm just looking at it in a way of cutting into the board as little as possible, because, if for some reason I need to put it the original way, only one small trace will be cut. I could be way off on this idea, it just looked like another way of approaching the problem. Thanks for all you've done and continue to do.

Danny S.

i would also appreciate 1-2 more pics, i don't want to mess something up

and also to make sure, the trace between IC11 pin2 and VR4 pin1, i cut on the component side, right ?

Guys, follow the trace on the pic above and you will understand how to bypass the path that is cut

But, I'm also wondering on which side to do the cuts?
How deep is enough and can i damage something if I go "too deep"?

thx a lot for the effort, gonna try this "bassdrum buzz be gone" mod tomorrow and will give some feedback here if it worked.

P.S.: it should be on the "component side", red is normally the top layer in eagle

decoder303 wrote:P.S.: it should be on the "component side", red is normally the top layer in eagle

Yes it is

Best regards,
e-licktronic

It works!

The hardest part was de-soldering IC11. I used half a dip16 socket to put it back on the board, with pin 2 sticking out.

I considered de-soldering VR5 to make it easier to remove the transistors but was able to remove solder from the accessible legs then do the rest from the other side of the board.

Be Careful! I burned my fingers while removing the transistors and melted a couple of spots on the VR posts...

Here are some photos. iPhones are hard to focus that close. Excuse the cat hairs